

When I'm in Halifax, I always buy a poppie during the rememberance day period, but this year I decided to take it to another level. Tummers and I met up in Arras, France, November 11th to set off on a Canadian, Remeberance Day pilgrimage. We didn't expect it to be a pilgrimage but it just turned out that way.
Vimy Ridge is where we were headed. Vimy Ridge is a site where some of the blodiest battles in WWI took place. There were 100,000 Canadians who took part in the battle of Vimy Ridge. Sadly, 3,598 were killed and 7,004 were wounded. The Ridge was recaptured by the Canadians and returned to the French. As a token of French gratitude, a monument was placed on the site to honor the Canadian Soldiers who lost their lives. Also, a portion of the land is officially Canadian soil. With our spirits high and proud, two Canadians headed off to find a piece of their heritage...
We started the day watching the Rememberance day parade that was being held in the city of Arras. There were children reading poems (Flanders Field, in French, Champs D'honneur) and reciting letters some of the casulties in the war had written to their loved ones before they perished. We watched all of this from the top of a Church steeple about 150 feet over the square where the readings were taking place. With the cool breeze, the marching band in the background and a magnificent view of Northern France, we were convinced we had it right. After the wind drove us from the steeple, we headed out to Vimy. I had over looked the fact that November 11th was a National holiday in France and all the buses were down. This wasn't about to stop the two pf us so we told the lady at the information desk that it didn't matter and we would walk the 8km. She looked at us strangely and told us "Bonne Chance".... Against our better judgement we dismissed her comment and headed off with a makeshift local map, 2 large beers, 1 chocolate bar and two Canadian Flags.
We got to the exit and began to walk on the side of the highway. I put my Canadian Flag around my head and then put my thumb up and within minutes we had a lift. Two females about our age picked us up and they were off to a party. We told them where we were headed and we began to move. We went about ten kilometers until we both were wondering where on earth we were. "Stop! Here is good" we yelled. Happy with how much ground we had covered we jumped out and thanked them for what they had done for us. Little did we know that they had taken us about 10 kilometers in the wrong direction! We walk another kilometer until we discovered how far off track we were. We were now even farther away than when we had stared! Only now we were east instead of south.
" All my life I've been waiting to be picked up by two women on the side of the road.... and now I pray it never happens again" -Kevin Tummers. I was feeling the same way. We managed to cross the highway and were now headed back where we came from. It was about 2:30 pm now and we were no where near our destination. We stuck our thumbs up once again and were picked up quickly. On the way back to Arras there was a side road that had a sign towards Vimy reading 10km. We jumped out there and began to walk along the backroads approaching Vimy. We walked through a ghost town called Oppy, which seemed to be overrun by dogs. After we came to the conclusion that no one was going to pick us up we cracked our beers and began to enjoy the walk. We eventually found a bench, a boulangerie and a meats store. We got a bit of chicken and bread and enjoyed our beers on the bench. It was slowly getting darker and we still hadn't made it to Vimy, nor did we have a place to stay. So after an hour on the bench, feeling very much recouperated, we set off again on the long road.
Once we got out of the small town back to the country side again, we could see Vimy in distance. It's a ridge spanning miles and miles. I could only imagine what it would have been like to have been a soldier in WWI, preparing to attack the ridge, with full knowledge that it was protected by German soldiers and heavy artillery. Knowing full well that the chances of returning alive were low, but for friends, family, country and honor, going ahead. These thoughts among others ran through my my mind and I was happy that I was walking to Vimy the same way the soldiers may have attacked it. I was also happy that there was no one defending it.
It got dark and began to rain. Our spirits were getting low. The rest of our night had som many question marks. Our only idea was to get to vimy and see what we could find there. If there was nothing, so be it. We had no idea what lay ahead there, but if everything was closed, we had spied a couple sheds with hay in them that looked better than the sidewalk. Nothing was open on the main strip, but off in the distance we saw a light. Since it was the only ligh,t we approached it. Low and behold it was a pub, filled with locals playing cards and dice, chatting and drinking beers. We eagerly went in, sat down and had a beer. Before long we were chatting with the locals and when they discovered we were Canadians they started buying us beer!! Before to long we knew everybody in the place and had 2 people looking for a place we could stay the night.
After 2 hours with the friendly people of Vimy, one of our new friends gave us a lift to a local guest house that was run by a woman of about 75 years of age. She took us in and when we told her we had not eaten she immediately got to work and began cooking omlettes and potatoes. She made us tea and coffee, gave us milk and yogurt and fresh bread, not to mention the omelettes were some of the best I've had. The bedroom was cozy and nice, and much better than a barn. within minutes I was asleep from the adventurous day we'd had.
We never made it to the monument, but we did get a Vimy Ridge experience that I think was even more valuable than the classic tour. We met the people and actually felt what it was like to see the ridge and get to it on foot. We recieved some amazing French hopitality, something that I will never forget, and when it comes down to it, I'd sooner meet new people than new monuments anyday!